With the meandering mountain roads, chaotic but beautiful traffic, and a language so melodious it seemed like poetry, the first time I stepped foot in Albania I had no clue I was about to fall in love. Before we get into all that, though, let me tell you about the time a goat blockage almost caused me to miss my ship.
A goat, a ferry, and my first taste of Albania
From Corfu to Sarandë, a beach resort in southern Albania with blue waves and laid-back Mediterranean feel, I was on route. Although the boat trip was uneventful, the true experience began the instant I touched down. After setting up a rental car—a slightly battered Fiat Panda that had obviously seen things—within minutes of driving I came upon a real herd of goats leisurely crossing the road. The elderly shepherd waved at me, grinned, and said something in Albanian—probably something like “Relax, my friend, you’re on Albanian time now.”
That was the instant I realised this journey would be different.
One Nation Using All Five Senses
Sight: Albania is a blast of oppositions. The north is all craggy mountains and mediaeval towns; the neon-blue Ionian Sea laps against white pebble beaches in the south. Tirana, the capital, combines sleek modern cafes full of digital nomads with buildings from the Soviet era painted in vibrant, almost defiant hues.
Sound: If you pay close attention, you will find the soft murmur of waves in Himarë, the echoing call to prayer in Shkodër, and the passionate conversation of the people in vibrant bazaars. And then there is the traffic—oh, the magnificent anarchy of honking vehicles and the odd donkey cart contributing its own rhythm.
Smell: Wander about Gjirokastër and the air smells of grilled lamb and mountain herbs. Near the seaside, it’s the sea’s salinity combined with the faint scent of citrus trees flowering.
Taste: Albanian food is underappreciated badly. While fresh seafood in Dhërmi begs questions about why you ever compromised for frozen supermarket fish, a platter of tave kosi (baked lamb with yoghurt) is comfort food at its best. And the rakia? Let’s say, should an Albanian extend a shot to you, be ready—it’s more of an initiation than a drink.
Touch: Under your hands the cool, polished stone of old ruins. On Ksamil’s beaches, the sun-warmed stones. In the mountain communities, the delicate, handcrafted wool carpets. Everything in Albania has texture—physical and symbolic as well.
Where to Stay: Hotels for Every Kind of Traveler
Luxury: Tirana’s Maritim Hotel Plaza a five-star hotel with amazing skyline views right downtown Tirana. The ideal base from which to tour the capital.
Hotel Liro, Vlorë – Coastal Charm Tucked atop a cliff, this hotel offers private beach access and unhindered sea views.
Gem hidden in Stone City Hostel, Gjirokastër – This little hostel, which is set in a historic Ottoman-style home, is among the greatest places to meet other guests.
Kerculla Resort, Gjirokastër – Views Like No Other Tucked up on the hills, this classy resort has expansive views of the whole city. It is an amazing stay because of the infinity pool, classic restaurant, and serene surroundings.
Himara Hostel, Himarë is a laid-back location with hammocks, garden bar and walking distance from some of Albania’s greatest beaches.
Rondos Hotel, Himarë, another great Himara option is directly on the seaside with breathtaking views of the bay, roomy accommodations and a private beach area. Ideal for someone seeking a combination of cost and comfort.
Charming Berat Stay: Belgrad Mangalem, Berat a wonderfully preserved Ottoman mansion with genuine hospitality, broad city vistas, and classic appeal.
Investigating the Hidden Corners of Albania
The fact that Albania is so erratic is among its strongest features. One day you are touring UNESCO-listed ruins; the next day you are tasting handcrafted wine with a family in a small mountain community. Here are some less well-known treasures for your review:
Lake Koman Ferry offers an experience rather than only a ferry journey. From Koman to Fierza, the trek across steep gorges and green waterways is among the most amazing boat journeys in Europe.
Theth to Valbona Hike: The most well-known walk in Northern Albania winds through alpine meadows, stunning mountains and historic stone towns where guesthouses greet you with warm bread and honey.
Just an hour from Tirana, Bovilla Lake is a secret paradise for trekking and picnics with vistas that make one feel as though they have entered a dream. It is turquoise.
Less well-known on the Ionian coast, Ali Pasha Castle, Porto Palermo, allows you to explore tunnels and ascend to the summit to enjoy an amazing view of the sea.
Advice on Surviving (and Thriving) in Albania
The Roads Are Wild, Embrace It: Albanians drive with an eye towards an action film audition. If you rent a car, you should expect periodic cattle crossings, natural lane changes, and amazing coastline drives that will cause you to stop every ten minutes for pictures.
Never expect timetables to mean anything. Everything, including buses, ferries, and restaurant cuisine, runs on Albanian time—basically “whenever it happens.” Calm down, sip coffee, and savour the moment.
Cash Is King: Small towns and villages are entirely cash territory even if larger cities accept cards. Although they are easy to locate, you should always carry some lek with you.
Talk to the Residents: Among the most friendly people you will ever come across are Albanians. Often including a full family in the process, they will go out of their way to assist you even though they do not know English. Learn a couple words: Faleminderit (thank you) and Sa kushton? (how much is it?) would be quite helpful.
Though most visitors head directly for the beaches, northern Albania is like entering another planet. Don’t skip the North. Think foggy peaks, glacial rivers, guesthouses where you wake up to the scent of freshly made bread—straight out of a storybook in Theth and Valbona National Park.
Use the Local Buses (If You Dare). An adventure in itself is the furgon (minibus) system. They depart full, stop anywhere, and frequently have Albanian music screaming from the radio. Affordable and interesting!
Visit during the Shoulder Season; July and August may be hot and packed. Great weather and few visitors are best balanced in May, June, and September.
Finally, why does Albania steal my heart?
Albania is a nation you feel, not a place you visit only. It is orderly yet chaotic, old but modern, and utterly unpredictable in the greatest sense. Albania seeps into your skin whether your activities are sunbathing in Ksamil, trekking in Valbona, or just drinking a strong kafe turke in a busy square—and once it’s there, it never fully leaves.
And should you ever find yourself blocked on a twisting mountain route behind a herd of goats? Simply inhale deeply and savour the journey. Right now you live in Albanian time.