Family Travel | Cyprus
Cyprus has been on our radar for a while. It’s one of those destinations that ticks so many boxes, sunshine, history, gorgeous beaches, food that the whole family will actually eat and yet somehow it always felt like we hadn’t quite got to the bottom of what’s actually there beyond the obvious. So I did a deep dive, and honestly? The island has a lot more to offer than most people give it credit for.
Whether you’re planning a week away with the kids, a couple’s break, or one of those trips where you actually want to explore rather than just lie by a pool (not that there’s anything wrong with that!), here’s what I’d be putting on the itinerary.
Paphos — more than a pretty harbour
Most people have heard of Paphos, but I don’t think its reputation quite does it justice. Yes, there’s Aphrodite’s Rock, the dramatic sea stack on the coastal road that’s linked to the goddess’s mythical birthplace and it’s absolutely worth a stop, especially around sunset when the light hits the water.
But the real highlight for us would be the Kato Paphos Archaeological Park. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it houses some of the most spectacular Roman mosaic floors I’ve ever seen pictures of detailed mythological scenes laid down in the 3rd century AD that have survived remarkably well. There’s also a 2nd-century outdoor theatre (the Odeon) that still hosts performances in summer, which feels like the kind of thing the kids would talk about for ages. A full day in Paphos feels about right morning at the archaeological park, lunch near the harbour, a wander around the old harbour castle in the afternoon.
Nicosia — the divided capital
This one genuinely surprised me when I looked into it. Nicosia is the only capital city in the world that’s still divided by a physical barrier, the UN Green Line runs right through the centre, separating the Republic of Cyprus from the Turkish-administered north. You can actually cross between the two sides at the Ledra Street checkpoint, which is a passport or EU ID job but otherwise straightforward.
The old part of the city sits inside beautiful Venetian walls that are still largely intact, a circular fortification with 11 bastions built in the 16th century. Inside you’ve got the Cyprus Museum (brilliant collection of ancient Cypriot artefacts), the Selimiye Mosque (a Gothic cathedral turned mosque after the Ottoman conquest, which is architecturally fascinating), and streets that genuinely shift in character as you move between south and north. It’s the kind of place that makes history feel very immediate rather than something on a plaque you read and walk past. Half a day works, a full day is even better.
The Troodos Mountains — yes, Cyprus has mountains
Hand on heart, I don’t think enough people know this. Cyprus has a proper mountain range, the Troodos Massif, rising to nearly 2,000 metres at Mount Olympus. High enough for snow in winter, and in summer, genuinely cooler than the coast when the heat gets a bit much.
The villages up here are really lovely. Omodos has a monastery and tiny lace shops. Lefkara is known for its silverwork and embroidery. Kakopetria has medieval stone houses along a river that feel like they’ve been there forever (because they have). There are also ten UNESCO-listed painted Byzantine churches scattered through the mountains, some dating back to the 11th century, with frescoes still on the ceilings and walls. You’d need a car and about 90 minutes from Larnaca to get up there, but it’s a really nice change of pace from the coast.
Larnaca — don’t just drive through it
Most people land at Larnaca Airport and immediately head off somewhere else. I completely understand the logic, but it’s actually worth spending proper time here. The Finikoudes promenade runs along the seafront, palm-lined, great for an evening stroll and the old town has the beautiful Church of Saint Lazarus (supposedly built over the tomb of the biblical Lazarus, who lived out his days in Cyprus as a bishop) and a medieval fort right on the waterfront.
A bit further out, the Larnaka Salt Lake is one of those unexpectedly special things. In winter it fills with water and becomes home to thousands of flamingos, properly pink, proper flamingos, just there. The Hala Sultan Tekke mosque sits at the edge of the lake and is one of the most important Islamic sites in the region. And if there are any divers in the family, the Zenobia wreck offshore, a Swedish ferry that sank on its maiden voyage in 1980, is considered one of the best wreck dives in the world. The boys would absolutely love hearing about that even if they can’t dive yet.
If Larnaca is your base and it makes a brilliant one, Golden Bay Beach Hotel is right on the seafront. It’s a 5-star property with four restaurants, a spa, and a kids’ club, so there’s genuinely something for everyone. You can book directly (and get the best rate) at goldenbay.com.cy.
Protaras — the eastern coast at its best
If you’ve been to Cyprus before and fancy something a little different, or if you’re specifically looking for somewhere with brilliant beaches and a calmer vibe than the bigger resort towns, Protaras on the eastern tip of the island is wonderful. The water here is some of the clearest I’ve read about anywhere in the Mediterranean, genuinely turquoise, with a clarity that apparently has to be seen to be believed.
Fig Tree Bay is the headline beach: a curved stretch of soft sand with shallow water and a little rocky island you can swim out to. It gets busy in peak season but it’s a good size. The Cape Greco National Forest Park is just to the south, limestone sea caves, coastal paths, cliffs that drop into clear water and is the kind of place you could happily spend a morning exploring. There are also boat trips now departing from the new Protaras Marina that take you along the coastline to the sea caves and across toward Ayia Napa’s Blue Lagoon. Half a day on the water sounds like my kind of afternoon.
Golden Coast Beach Hotel is right on the beachfront in Protaras, with direct access to Louma Beach (which is Blue Flag accredited and beautifully shallow, perfect for families with younger children). They’ve also got a spa, outdoor and indoor pools, padel courts, and a kids’ club. Direct bookings at goldencoast.com.cy.
Famagusta — if you’re up for crossing into the north
This one takes a little more planning, you cross the Green Line checkpoint (passport needed) and you’re in the Turkish-administered north but Famagusta is genuinely unlike anywhere else on the island. The old city is ringed by Venetian walls that are among the best-preserved in the Eastern Mediterranean. Inside: a Gothic cathedral that became a mosque after the Ottoman conquest and still looks, from the outside, like a cathedral. The citadel said to have inspired Othello’s setting in Shakespeare.
And then there’s Varosha. It’s a former resort district that was sealed off after 1974 and simply left hotels with their signs still up, streets empty for decades. Parts of it have recently been opened to visitors. It’s one of those quietly affecting places that I think stays with you. Famagusta is about an hour from Larnaca.
A few practical things worth knowing
Cyprus drives on the left, which I always find reassuring as a UK family! The distances are smaller than the map suggests, Larnaca to Paphos is under two hours, Larnaca to Nicosia is 45 minutes, and Larnaca to Protaras is 45 minutes. You’ll want a hire car for anything beyond your immediate base, but the roads are good and well signposted.
The sweet spot for visiting is May, June, September, or October. Warm enough for swimming and sightseeing, but without the full heat of July and August when the coast can hit the high 30s. If you do go in the peak summer months, the Troodos Mountains are your friend, a much more comfortable temperature and a completely different side of the island.
Food-wise, eat where the locals eat and you’ll have a brilliant time. The halloumi is everything it’s cracked up to be. So is the meze, a proper spread of little dishes that’s perfect for families because everyone finds something they like. And the local wine is genuinely good, particularly the red from the Troodos villages.
Honestly, Cyprus has moved right up my travel list. It feels like an island that rewards the people who look past the resort strip and actually explore and with the right base, that’s very easy to do.
For the Larnaca seafront, take a look at goldenbay.com.cy. For Protaras, goldencoast.com.cy.