All of it began with the airy aroma of spices. Stone Town’s little lanes hummed with activity: sellers shouting Swahili, the distant call to prayer from a muezzin, and the odd honk from a dilapidated motorbike negotiating very narrow passageways. Arriving in the centre of Zanzibar, I was prepared to travel back in time and expose the layers of past buried behind its old walls.
Wandering Through Living History of Stone Town
Salim, our guide, welcome us with a friendly “Karibu sana!” I was taken back as we walked past carved wooden doors, each reflecting the prestige and legacy of its owner. Stone Town is a sensory experience not only a location. The ancient fort loomed far away, its coral-stone walls murmuring stories of Omani sultans and Portuguese explorers. At the House of Wonders, which nevertheless exuded majesty despite its present state of decay, we paused.
After that was Freddie Mercury’s residence. Indeed, The Freddie Mercury of Queen! Born in Zanzibar, his modest memento of his surprising beginnings still stands—his boyhood house. Between breaks, the air smelt strongly of freshly cooked mishkaki, or seasoned skewers, and I mentally noted that I should have some later. Still, first we had more history to discover.
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Prison Island: Giant Tortoises & Ignored Pastimes
Later, a little, breezy boat trip brought us to Changuu Island, sometimes known as Prison Island. Walking onto the wooden pier, I sensed a change in time as the light shimmered over the turquoise waves. Originally meant to be a jail, the island turned into a yellow fever patient quarantine centre.
To be honest, though, the really outstanding performers here are the enormous Aldabra tortoises. Among them are several over 150-year-old relics. Feeling the rough, old texture of its shell under my hands, I bent down to offer one of these gentle giants a lush green lunch. Trust me—if you have ever wanted to have a staring contest with a tortoise—they always win.
Mzee, the eldest tortoise, Salim said had watched generations of visitors come and go. She meant “elder.” It seemed strange, like shaking hands with history itself.
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Nakupenda: Island of “I Love You”.
Should paradise have an address, it would be Nakupenda Beach. In Swahili, the name means “I love you,” and indeed, it’s difficult not to be drawn to this vanishing sandbank in the midst of the Indian Ocean.
I knew this was unique the instant my feet felt the silky, powder-white sand. Only on postcards had I seen a hue of blue like the lake; it was so clear I could count the little fish swimming about my ankles.
We sank in with our snorkesls. Underneath the waves, the marine life was amazing: schools of rainbow-coloured fish swirled across the currents, vivid coral, and even a sly octopus disguised against the rocks. It seemed like entering an aquatic dream.
Lunch was cooking back on land. Grilled lobster, prawns, calamari, freshly caught fish, all presented on a seafood plate straight out of heaven beside luscious tropical fruits. Including the mangoes? Perfection all around.
I couldn’t help but consider this sort of experience that stays with you long after you’ve left as I drank on a cool drink and felt the salted wind in my hair.
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Pro Advice for the Best Experience:
✔️ Choose sensible shoes for Stone Town; although the cobblestone streets are lovely, they are punishing.
✔️ Pack a hat and sunscreen; Zanzibar’s sun doesn’t play around.
✔️ Head to Nakupenda with a waterproof bag for your phone and valuables.
✔️ Stay hydrated; the tropical heat with seafood feast equals a thirst you will wish to satisfy.
✔️ Make an advance book reservation. Popular this trip is, and spaces fill up quickly.
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I was appreciative when the sun sank behind the drowsy boats around Stone Town. Zanzibar is a mood, a blend of adventure, history, and ocean wind that sticks with you, not only a place. Take advantage of any opportunity to visit. And, should you be ready right now, you know what to do. 😉