From crashing waves to making your own rakija, here are some honest travel tips for Montenegro (hotel edition).
We had been in Montenegro for 30 minutes when I realised two things: 1) My husband can’t park a rental car backwards to save his life, and 2) People in Montenegro have a very patient sense of humour.
In front of Apartments Trifunovic Old Town, an old man leaned against a fig tree and watched our terrible attempts to park. He finally waved us over, laughed in a mix of Serbian and mime, parked the car for us, and gave my husband a plastic bottle of his own rakija. “Dobrodošli!” (Hi!)
That’s basically all there is to know about Montenegro: friendly people, dangerous roads, and gifts of strong drink before noon.
We were surprised by every part of this country, from the dramatic coastline of Budva to the misty mountains of Kotor and the local pace of the towns in the middle of the country. Where we stayed became just as memorable as what we saw.
Our story, one hotel check-in at a time, while we’re drunk on rakija.
Beaches, crowds, and Balkan beats on the Budva Riviera
Place to stay: Jaz Garden Residence
Picture waking up to the sound of beach clubs playing in the distance, the sound of cicadas, and the smell of sunscreen and seaweed. The Jaz Garden Residence was a great place to stay because it was close to the party but far enough away to sleep. There were smells of rosemary and fish on the grill from across the street in the yard.
Tip: By noon, Jaz Beach is full of people. For a calmer atmosphere, get there early and rent chairs close to the rocks.
Other great choices in the Budva area:
You can walk from the Garni Hotel MB to Old Town Budva in no time. Nice and clean, and they serve a full Balkan breakfast.
Apartments Spin: This is a great place to get a room and act like you live here.
Studios Merdovic are simple, bright, and a great place to stay for day trips.
You can feel the silence at Villa D Apartments in Lastva Grbaljska, which are more out in the country.
Information about the area: At night, Budva’s Old Town comes to life. People in this area don’t eat dinner until 9pm. Accept the late-night way of life.
Cobblestones, cats, and views from the top of cliffs in Kotor
The hotel is the Sky View Luxury Apartments by Admiral
You’ll feel like a bad guy from James Bond when you wake up (in a good way). Floor-to-ceiling glass, a view of the bay that fills your ears with sound, plush comfort.
“Polako” is a local word. It’s a way of life that means “slowly.” Meals take a long time. People talk for a long time. It’s great.
The best hotels in Kotor:
The Altezza 14 Premium Tophill is up high and well worth the climb. Views that make you humble.
The Grand Palazzo Apartments and rooms make you feel like you’re sleeping in a royal garden.
Art Guest House 2 is cheap, artsy, and close enough to everything to walk to.
Tip: The best time to walk up the fortress steps is early in the morning or during golden hour. Bring water with you. Oh, and patient.
Tivat: Cool, sleek, and surprisingly close to home
Hidden away on a quiet street, but only 10 minutes from the ocean. The courtyard smelt like oleander in bloom and new paint. The family that owns it leaves fruit boxes in your room and the hotel is new and clean.
Lovely alternatives:
El Mar Apartments have a deck where you can enjoy a glass of rosé as the sun goes down.
The Buba Guest House is run by a family and has a lot of character. They’ll be nice to you like a cousin.
The Belvedere Apartments have beautiful views and nice cats, which is a good name for them.
Tip from people who live there: Don’t stay in Porto Montenegro all the time. Donja Lastva has casual cafés and espressos for €1.
Herceg Novi: Saunas, Hikes, and Hills
Hotel: The Aruba Hotel
If you want to get away from the crowds of tourists, this is the place to go. Lavender plants grew all around the pool area, and the spa was set up like a hammam. After a long walk, this is heaven.
Not to be missed:
High Hostel is cheap and has an artistic vibe. Ideal for people travelling alone.
The Bjelanovic Apartments are in a quiet area with fig trees all around them.
The LUX APARTMANI M-Milic is big, clean, and perfect for families.
A cultural fact is that Montenegrins will feed you. Plenty. Yes to grilled meat and pepper spread you make yourself. In the end, just walk it off.
Sunsets, peace, and foamy waves in Ulcinj and the south coast
Iberostar Waves Bellevue All Inclusive
It’s not just an all-inclusive. We were surrounded by soft sheets, views of the sea, and the smell of sunscreen and sweet cakes at Iberostar Waves Bellevue. Being only a few steps from the beach, I loved having coffee on the deck in the mornings while listening to the waves. It was more relaxing than any music. Buffets with grilled fish, flaky burek, and endless desserts made every meal feel like a party.
Do not miss these southern stays:
The Studios Kalina are right above a bakery. You are going to eat more croissants than you planned.
Apartmani Cupic is cosy, right on the water, and very clean.
Villa Vuckovic has a yard with palm trees, swings, and sometimes peacocks.
A tip for the south coast: go to Valdanos beach. The water is very clear, and the olive trees are very old (thousands of years).
What I Wish I Had Learnt Before I Went
Get a small rental car. The roads are narrow and windy. Oh, and parking? Ha.
Don’t expect magic from public travel. There are sometimes buses.
People in small places like cash, even though ATMs are everywhere. Pull back in Podgorica or a bigger city.
People there speak pretty good English, but you should learn how to say “thank you” and “please.” People’s eyes will light up.
Coffee culture is very important. Take it easy, sip slowly, and watch the people around you.
Take your time. The best way to enjoy Montenegro is “polako.”
Last Thoughts: Montenegro, You Mysterious Wonder
It seemed like Montenegro was Europe’s cool cousin—not worried, beautiful, a little wild, and full of shocks. Having a glass of wine at a wharf one minute and hiking a cliff with a group of goats the next.
Every hotel had its own special something, like hammocks on top of hills or breakfasts by the coast, views from the rooftop or cosy stays in the town. All of them showed us different sides of Montenegro’s soul.
Would I come back? Of course. But I’m not going to buy the extra insurance for the rental car next time. Instead, I’m going to bring extra stretchy trousers.
Because you say yes when a grandmother in Kotor offers you her home-made baklava. Whenever.