November 23, 2024, and Montenegro welcomed us with an unannounced hug of sunlight. Expecting a fresh fall wind, my husband and I left the airport at Tivat, but instead we were swimmers in 18°C warmth. An ideal beginning for what would turn out to be one of our most remarkable travels.
Day 1: Tivat & Kotor – A Gentle Landing into Luxury and History
We started in Tivat, the glittering small town that seemed to be Montenegro’s counterpart of Monaco. The marina of Porto Montenegro shined in the sunlight as superyachts softly rocked against the moorings. The type of location you would half expect to see a millionaire drinking espresso. But rather than feeling uncomfortable, we found it to be rather charming—perhaps in part because Montenegro’s laid-back vibe.
First business was brunch by the water. Fresh strawberries, blueberries, and bananas topped fluffy little pancakes sprinkled with powdered sugar at a seaside café. Nutella on the side (right? balance calls for this)? The coffee was robust and delicious, the type that wakes your spirit instead of merely your intellect. The setting felt like a movie set with the Adriatic rolling out in front of us—except it was real and we were living in it.
Following Tivat’s luxury, we drove fifteen minutes to Kotor, an old town nestled amid fjord-like mountains. Strolling across the city gates was like entering another century—stone paths, mediaeval buildings, and a labyrinth of lanes just waiting to be explored. Though the climb up the Ladder of Kotor seemed enticing, we chose to go slow and see the sunset from Horizon Bar, exactly over the harbour. Golden sunshine poured over the terracotta roofs, and with every glass of our local Vranac wine, the stresses of home seemed to disappear even further.
Day 2: Clear Waters and Lustica Peninsula – Hidden Gems
We pursued adventure in Lustica Peninsula the following day, a rocky shore filled with secret beaches, abandoned underwater bunkers, and deep blue caverns. On a boat ride to the Blue Cave, the water shone like something from a fantasy book. I floated in the cave, weightless, surrounded by glittering reflections that gave the impression that we were hanging in liquid sapphire.
Lunch was at a beach restaurant in Rose, a little fishing community where time slows down. Simple, fresh, and delicious grilled fish, olive oil-drenched salads, and handmade bread.
Day 3: Herceg Novi & Perast — Postcard-Perfect Montenegro
To Herceg Novi, a town with a bohemian spirit, we drove an hour north. Here by the sea, mornings are best spent; hence, that is exactly what we did—coffee in hand, observing the lazy rolling waves. Should you ever find yourself here, do not overlook Savina Winery. The view from the vineyard? Their local wine is dangerously smooth. Un Unreal.
We got at Perast around sunset and went on a boat to Our Lady of the Rocks. According to legend, sailors who threw a rock here each time they made safely home created the island. The sky had become brilliant orange by the time we docked, and I couldn’t help but wonder how many wishes had been murmured to the seas over ages.
Day four: Old World Meets Beach Bliss – Budva & Sveti Stefan
The liveliest beach town in Montenegro, Budva, let us sample its mediaeval appeal before guiding us directly to one of the greatest dinners we had ever eaten. Rising above the Adriatic, Restoran Vista Vidikovac provides a magnificent vista that accentuates every mouthful of their distinctive lamb cuisine.
The afternoon promised a swim at Jaz Beach, one of the most well-known coasts of Montenegro. Though cold, the water felt delightful; fall in Montenegro is just warm enough to entices you in. Later, we watched the sunset from St. Sava Church, a peaceful place like a secret taken from the heavens.
Day 5: Petrovac & Skadar Lake – The Other Side of Montenegro
Montenegro is not limited to the shoreline. Inland, the scene changes to feature undulating hills and secret lakes. The unanticipated trip standout was Skadar Lake. Surrounded by lilypads and foggy mountains, a boat trip over its calm waterways seemed like a fantasy. At Hotel Sokoline, where we stayed the night, the vista from our balcony seemed to go indefinitely across the valley. Waking up here? just priceless.
Day Six and Seven: Ostrog Monastery and Durmitor – a Spiritual and Natural High
Visiting Ostrog Monastery was both breathtaking and humble as it is constructed on a pure rock face. Mumbled prayers disturbed the quiet within, and even as a guest, you could sense the weight of generations of loyalty.
From then, we headed north to Durmitor National Park, where the wild heart of Montenegro pulses most powerfully. Black Lake reflected the highest mountains above, as motionless as glass. After days at the sea, we hiked a little path and inhaled the aroma of pine trees—the crisp mountain air.
Last thoughts and travel advice
Montenegro is a land you never would have guessed at first. One minute you’re drinking coffee in a Venetian-style piazza; the next you’re swimming in a secret cove; by dusk you’re seeing the sunset from a mountain top.
Should you venture:
🌞 Hire a vehicle. Public transit runs along the shore, but for destinations like Lustica, Skadar, and Durmitor you’ll want the flexibility to explore.
🌞 Continue to live in several cities. Every one has a different atmosphere; Durmitor is pure nature, Budva is vibrant, and Kotor is historic.
🌞 Taste the local wine. Vranac is vital.
🌞 Avoid planning too much. Montenegro is greatest when you let serendipity have room.
would we return? In a heartbeat. Montenegro is wonderful; we hardly touched on it.