I knew I was in New Zealand when I had to stop suddenly for a sheep.
Not even a flock. One renegade, self-important sheep stood like it was doing a solo in a West End musical right in the centre of the road. Halfway between Kerikeri and Paihia, windows down, the rental car messed with empty coffee cups and errant chips, when the woolly diva locked eyes with me and refused to move. I delayed. We watched. A solid ninety-second stand-off before she sauntered off the road, like I had just stopped her from following her plan.
And then the tone was set: surprising, slow, and very New Zealand.
The road; the rhythm; the revelation.
Driving in New Zealand under self-direction seems like a movie. Winding cliffside roads, boundless verdant landscapes, large lakes shimmering like glass. It has a pulse: drive, stop for a vista, take forty pictures, grab a pie, then back off. Every moment seems like you came across a postcard for which you are not dressed.
Starting in the Bay of Islands, I swirled down the Coromandel, drifted over Rotorua, skirted the border of Lake Taupo, and then turned south to Queenstown, Wanaka, and the surreal Fiordland.
The route is just half the story, though. The visits. The magic truly existed in that space.
Northern NIRVANA: Kerikeri and Bay of Islands
Following a flawless landing in Auckland and a picturesque three-hour journey north, I slept in Avalon Resort in Kerikeri. This location seems to have been created by someone who once caressed a forest and never let go. Imagine contemporary chalets surrounded by fruit trees, a babbling stream, with sheep really prowling the grounds like unpaid mascots.
Floor to ceiling windows in my chalet let the dawn flood the oak flooring. The bed feels like a cloud. In the kitchen? Completely loaded for evening impromptu cheese-and-wine events. Pro tip: Pick treats from the nearby town farmer’s market.
In Paihia, a little hop away, I indulged at Sanctuary Palms one evening. Like I had entered a fancy treehouse. Yes, even in summer—this is cozy-vibes culture—my room had a Jacuzzi tub overlooking the water and a crackling fireplace. Every element was deliberate: native wood furniture, local art, and the type of stillness around you like a weighted blanket.
From Kerikeri to Paihia, avoid the main road and use the alternative way via Haruru Falls—its green and less popular.
COROMANDEL CALLING: Dreams in the Coastal Curl
The Coromandel Peninsula is next, where every beach seems to be a secret only residents know—and they are not revealing.
Though the name could trick you, the Esquire Motel in Whitianga is a unique yet comfortable stay more akin to a boutique-bungalow than a “motel.” My favourite thing was The proprietors possessed dry Kiwi humour that made you feel as though an old friend. They suggested a morning plunge at New Chums Beach; while I complained about the 5 a.m. wake-up, it proved to be one of the most heavenly encounters of my trip.
Practical Tip: Although you drive left in New Zealand, one-lane bridges will cause you problems. First arrive, first go; nevertheless, always follow the sign. Oh, and the dirt roads? Please get them. In slow motion. They result in the nice stuff.
ROTORUA: Māori Soul, Steam, and Sulpurnium
Though it feels like a homecoming, Rotorua stinks like a fart. Your nose will adjust and you will find you have arrived somewhere real and raw. Māori culture beats through the town like a consistent pulse, mud pools boil menacingly, geysers explode from the ground like furious teapots.
Though officially in Tauranga, I stayed at the Peace and Plenty Inn, near enough for day excursions. The bed and breakfast in Victorian style is all lace curtains, hand-painted tea settings, and scones that would cause a London grandma to cry. Owner-hosted and delightful, it was like entering a love letter to New Zealand’s colonial history (with all the charm and none of the dust).
Cultural Advice: Go to Mitai Māori Village for a hangi supper. Never overlook the haka. It is rather strong. And carry tissues; you will feel everything.
LAKE TAUPO: Cosy Fireplaces & Still Waters
The drive slows down around Taupo, and you start timing events in lakeside walks and hot springs. Tekao Lodge, a remote resort with expansive views of Lake Taupo and the snow-capped hills of Tongariro beyond, was my base of operations. This is your location if you have ever longed to sit in a hot tub beneath the stars while drinking a Pinot Noir from Central Otago.
Inside, the lodge was rustic luxury: stone fireplaces, big bathrooms, and a kitchen practically motivated me to cook (nearly). On the counter the hosts left delicious lemon muffins. I started to cry a bit. That morning was that type of one.
Local Tip: See the Māori rock sculptures by arranging a boat excursion. They are only reachable by sea, hence sure, they are worthwhile.
Magical SOUTH Island: Wanaka, Fiordland, Queenstown
I drove the spine of the South Island down to Wanaka after ferrying to Picton. This sequence is sheer cinematic excess. I basically doubled the journey time and stopped over several times for pictures. Reasonable.
Wanaka?
Though geographically north in Northland, I stayed at Magic Cottages near Takou River, not quite in Wanaka; I backtracked for a second stay as I couldn’t get them out of my head. Imagine waking up to mist rising from a river, birdsong as your alert, and breakfast brought from a wicker basket. Like a woodland princess, I felt. Outside even was a clawfoot tub.
Queensstown
a complete flip-over. buzzing, gorgeous, and loaded with adrenaline-junkies. My insurance policy appreciates me; I did not leap from a bridge; instead, I ate my bodyweight in Fergburger and hiked Queenstown Hill in flip-flops (do not suggest).
I spent a few minutes out of town at a lakefront guesthouse with a vista so strange I momentarily thought of computer-generated images. Book someplace somewhat outside of Queenstown main; it’s less expensive, quieter, and the stars show full IMAX at night.
FOODIE FINDS & UNSCRIPTED MOMENTS ROADSIDE GEMS
Some of my most treasured experiences were not scheduled. Like discovering a wayside cottage in the Catlins offering onasted sourdough whitebait fritters. Alternatively dragging into a haphazard seaside pull-off and seeing sea lions lounge on the rocks like cuddly sun-worshippers. Alternatively the Hokitika hostel owner gave me fresh-baked banana bread at check-in without any justification.
Kiwi Hospitality Tip: People from New Zealand will go out of their way to assist you. It is cultural DNA—not customer service. Smile, probe, and always offer appreciation with a happy “Cheers!”
Things I discovered the hard way:
Get plenty of fuel regularly. There are certain sections without a gas station that last a long period. Try not to flirt with E.
Early book popular stays fill Magic Cottages, Avalon Resort, and Sanctuary Palms quickly in peak season.
The road encourages you to slow down, not rush. Allow it.
Playlists for road trips count; Lorde, Crowded House, and a little country seem just perfect.
Car snacks are holy; pies are a religion in New Zealand. Value the steak and cheese.
Last Thoughts: A Land Driving You Home
The car was a mess, my shoes smelt like wet forest, and I had sunburn shaped like my seatbelt as I rolled back into Auckland.
Still, my heart: Full.
Driving in New Zealand is a spiritual recalibration rather than simply a means of transportation. Here is where the countryside talks most when your engine is off, where residents welcome you like neighbours, and where you would visit for the vistas but remain for the history.
So pay for the automobile rental. Roll down the windows. Turn about to face the sheep traffic. Then drive the lengthy distance. Always.